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Help with choosing a bowhunting or archery case
Protecting your outdoor sporting goods is vital to increasing your enjoyment of your arrows and bows for years to come. When searching for cases for your bow or arrows you'll have several different options to choose from. With bow cases you'll have a either a soft Bow Case or a hard shell bow case. Arrow cases are typical either a box case or a tube case. Pay close attention to size and design as a case for compound bow won't usually work for crossbows.
Soft/Fabric Bow Cases
Soft bow cases are great for a lot of different bows and hunting types. These cases work well for a large variety of bows but they lack protection from drops and falls, but the fabric bow cases are good for carrying your bow to and from the stands because they are lightweight and don't make much noise if bumped against a tree or other objects. A great soft bow case is the Blacks Creek RealTree Bow Case with a pocket for an arrow box, a pocket for accessories for storing extra parts, and high density foam interior.
Arrow Cases
Adjustable tube arrow cases are great for the hunter that has custom arrows where a traditional case won't work. Tube cases vary and most won't secure the arrows in place so use caution when placing lots of arrows in one tube as there is nothing preventing them for banging into each other and causing possible damage. Standard arrow cases or box cases are great for storing arrows when not in use but also for transporting to your hunting spot. With most arrow cases featuring foam dividers you can keep your arrows from banging into each other while moving from location to location. There are varying storage sizes so make sure you get a case that holds enough arrows for your needs, typical storage size is 12-18 but you can find cases that store upwards of 36 arrows.
Hard Shell Bow Cases
Hard shell bow cases are my favorite choice because they provide the most protection for your bow. Another great feature of most hard shell archery bow cases is that they are lockable and usually have a storage spot for your arrows so you won't need to carry an arrow case with you. Getting a bow case that has a storage area for your quiver is also a feature to look for when looking for compound bow cases. If you have more than one bow or hunt with a party there are compound bow cases that can transport more than one bow at a time. Plano www.planomolding.com makes great single bow cases that have a quiver storage area, arrow storage, and are lockable all for around $50 so protecting your bow isn't a large investment.
About the Author
For more on outdoor sporting goods and cheap bow cases visit PoorFish Outdoors.
Archery Quiz (Easy 10 Points!)?
1A.Explain how to properly care for and store tabs,
1B.arm guards,
1C.shooting gloves,
1D.and quivers.
2A.Explain the following terms:cast
2B.draw weight
2C.string height (fistmele)
2D.aiming
2E.spine
2F.mechanical release
2G.freestyle
2H.and barebow.
1a. I just keep my tabs in my quiver, I have a few of them. About the only thing I do different is when it rains. Then I take them out of the quiver and put them in a ziplock bag. When the one I'm using gets too wet, I'll switch to another and another.
1B. Same with tabs, my arm guard is made of plastic, so no need for special care. I toss them out when the plastic breaks or from time to time I have to replace the elastic strap.
1C. I don't use gloves, so can't help you with this one.
1D. I have leather quiver, so to keep it from drying and cracking I use leather conditioner on it from time to time. Helps also to keep it looking nice and clean.
2A. Cast is the distance the bow can throw an arrow.
2B. Draw weight is the amount of force needed to draw the string back. In the industry, a standard has been established to measure bow draw weights at 28" of draw. This is important because the draw weight of recurves/longbows will continue to rise the longer it's drawn.
2C. We most often refer to this as brace height, it's the shortest distance from the pivot point of the arrow to the string. The pivot point of the arrow is most often the arrow rest, or plunger if you have it. On most bows the pivot point of the arrow is at the same distance to the string as the throat of the grip, so the throat of the grip is often used to measure brace height, although this is not always true as some of the newer bow designs have the pivot point and the throat at an offset.
2D. Aiming is just the act of pointing the bow at the target. There are several different ways to do it, one is with a sight, some people use what's called a stringwalking method, some people do it completely instinctive.
2E. Spine, is a measure of how stiff an arrow is. For an arrow to fly properly it has to be spined to match the bow's draw weight, the archer's draw length and the archer's release technique.
2F. Mechanical release is a release aid used primarily by compound shooters. Some of these works just like the trigger of a gun, there are also thumb release and back tension release. BT releases, let go of the string when a certain tension is put on it. Preventing the archer from "punching" the release, or anticipating the shot.
2G. Freestyle is a class where pretty much anything goes. Freestyle recurve for instance is a recurve bow that is equipped with sights, stabilizers, plunger, arrow rest, and clicker. Freestyle compound take things a bit further by allowing magnified scope, release, and peep sight.
2H. Barebow is a class where the bow is limited to be equipped with only an arrow rest, no sights, or any of the other toys you can put on a freestyle bow. Although some organizations will allow stabilizers on barebows.
How to make turkey hunting season a success
Daylight had not even shown itself when the thundering sound of a male turkey echoed through the woods. Over the next half hour other toms joined in and then I could hear the birds fly down. This was going to be easy.
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