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More Info On Magnum Broadhead:
Three Blade Broad Head Assembly Made Simple
This is the New Archery items latest head. It is four blade cut on a contact style with 1 1/8" cutting diameter. In addition, it has traditional "Razor back" rotating blade system. Blades in fact rotate around a ferule. There are two main blades, and two smaller bleeder blades and they are encased in the composite material that is wrapped around main portion of a threaded ferule.
I also found its correctness to be good, as fine as any fixed blade head & it the best which an body can that I have tried. In plywood test, head penetrated to the back of these blades, however not going in a way through. I need to dig it out from plywood, and I did that carefully. I also found that 2 small-bleeder blades had also come loose from ferrule. It seems as they are only pressed in a body, I am sure, and however when they are out, then they are out. I assume you can use few epoxy to glue it back, but it is not something that I wish to do for a hunting heads. In tire it entered to the back of blades, and making it all a way through. I have done tire test before plywood & I figure 4 blade configuration have slowed down its penetration that I have found of 4-blade heads with an exception of Muzzy-100 grain 4-blade. In steel drum, the penetration was very extremely good. Razorback went through its first side with a tip of main blade attaching out the back. Keep in mind though I need to shoot it with no bleeder blades. So here the trouble comes in. Tip of a blade was only left! Main blade broke in some small pieces, and composite portion of a ferule was split in three pieces. I was not surprised although. I studied head before testing that, and found few things that I thought will be a great problem.
Lay three blades & tip expediently in front of you & pick up a ferrule in left hand. Hold that by threads so that you can rotate them very easily when you slide blades in position. Never worry about "seating" the whole thing in final position. Leave few "working room" by placing everything about halfway in place.
Choose any blade & with bend pointing it upward slide that in any groove. Push carefully about halfway down & then spin ferrule in your fingers counter-clockwise until blade is pointing down & out the differing side.
Pick up next blade & with bend pointing up, slice it in a same groove that first blade is. If blade stops for any cause, do not push with your finger. Make use of wood to push blade in place. Blade must seat without resistance. If it is very difficult to push, and remove it as well as check for the obstructions. Repeat same process for third-blade & gently seat all three blades to bottom of a groove by using small wood piece.
The Slick Trick Broad heads are made from complete steel with .035 steel blades. 1" standard 4 blade can blow hole similar to 1 3/16" 3 blade broad heads on market. Patented Alcatraz Blade lock design is best on market, and some other broad heads cannot equal to total performance of four blades Slick-Trick 3 per pack.
Slick Trick Magnum fixed blade broad head features patented Alcatraz Blade lock design, which completely interlocks stainless steel blades in ferrule
About the Author
G5 Broadheads
is four blade cut on a contact style with 1 1/8" cutting diameter available at http://shop.eaglearchery.com
What is the best and MOST ACCURATE fixed blade broadhead?
What is the best and MOST ACCURATE fixed blade broadhead?
i was thinking about getting the slick trick standard, slick trick magnum, or the g5 striker.
The most accurate would be the standard slick trick due to it's extremely low profile. But yet it knocks a hole in a deer like a 12 gauge slug would. The G5 looks great, but it does not penetrate as well as the slick trick nor is it quite as accurate as the slick trick. I have experimented with almost every broadhead on the market. When I make a statement such as this it is my opinion and that opinion was formed by first hand experience with the broadheads.
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