Archie's Archery Depot

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Buying A Crossbow - Factors To Consider

First off when you think about buying a crossbow do not get sticker shock when you see a hunting crossbow selling for upwards of $2,000.  Prices vary depending on the styles, make, model, construction, weight, accessories, safety features and materials that they are made from.  Crossbows can be intimidating but they are also a fun hunting accessory.  Price also plays an important part in the quality and performance and can add to the life of the crossbow.  Prices for a low end product start at about $150. 

Traditional bowhunters think of a crossbow as a rifle that shoots arrows but it goes far beyond that misconception. 

Don't overestimate what a crossbow can do, it may shoot 100 yards, but it's not going to be a powerful shot.  A 30-40 yard shot is more realistic and is the farthest you want to be.  Most sights that come with a crossbow package are only designed for up to 40 yards, even though the crossbow can shoot farther.  But the farther distance you go, you lose accuracy and power.

An advantage to crossbows, over compound and traditional bows, is that you are able to cock the bow, which holds the string drawn and ready. Unlike a bow where you may get muscle aches or shakes from holding a bow drawn and ready.   With the arrow rested on the barrel with the feather in vane-guide all the hunter has to do is simply aim and pull the trigger.  So with a crossbow you can sit and wait with it already cocked and ready to shoot, unlike a traditional bow.

Most importantly, there is a direct correlation between distance and speed, it is the bow speed that equates to the distance.  Some states may have regulations on the maximum FPS (Feet per Second) that can be used as a legal crossbow.  It also affects which crossbows can be used for children, and these are typically lighter and more compact.  Be sure to check with your state for complete details on regulations regarding crossbows.  Here is a complete list of all the Department of Natural Resources by State.

Crossbows use shorter arrows, called bolts, versus arrows for bows and the bolts tend to be lighter.  They are great for short ranges up to 40 yards and very accurate, but after 40 yards, the accuracy drops.  Heavier aluminum arrows are recommended and have a down range energy that helps with longer shots.  With closer shots there isn't much difference when it comes to penetration.  Carbon arrows (bolts) are thicker, but lighter.

When buying a crossbow consider these factors:

Design:  2 styles are the recurve and compound.  Both are similar but the compound has smaller limbs, which allows it to be carried and transported or shooting in small areas easier.

Material Construction:  Some crossbows have molded plastic stocks while others are resin coated plywood or laminates.  The downside to plastic is that it is lighter, but it gives off more vibration or shock once it's shot.

Security:  Like all other firearms, crossbows must have a safety for protection.  Some higher end crossbows come with a dual safety.  Be sure to test it out to see how loud it is when you switch it on and off so it does not spook the prey.  Another feature is an anti-dry fire that is valuable to prevent accidental releases that can take off a finger or do damage to the bow.

Asking Price:  If your just starting out with a crossbow, test some out or get a lower end model.  If you like it, then upgrade and add to your collection a higher end that cost a bit more and may be better quality.  Sometimes you get what you pay for and quality can transform into more years of trouble-free service.

Sights:  Most crossbows are sold with a pre-mounted sight (scope). There are a variety of optics available; red dot sights, tubular magnified or standard pin and peep.  If your buying a crossbow package it more than likely will have a 4x scope.

Sling:  Slings or harnesses allow your crossbow to be carried over your back as you climb a tree stand or walk a long distance to your hunting location.

Cases:  Depends on your needs but just like a guitar or rifle case, they come in hard and soft shells.  They allow you to care for your crossbow, great for storage and are for transporting.

Cockers:  Can be one of the most expensive accessories to your package and come in 2 styles: rope cocker and crank cocker.  Can cost $25 to $200.  The rope cocker reduces the draw weight by 50 percent, but the crank cocker does most of the work as a ratchet device that makes more noise.

Packages:  A package price often includes the crossbow, sights, quiver and possibly some arrows to get you started.  It's an out of the box – get you into the field starter set that is made for both high end and cheaper bows.  By bundling some accessories in a prepackage deal you can save some money.

For more information on crossbow reviews visit the Bowhunter Store

About the Author

S L Tate, Family, Outdoors and Hunting Enthusiasts

Seriously, what all do I need to get started with this (archery)?

I've asked a few questions here lately, and I've just went looking for a bow. I thought that I'd need just a bow and some arrows...but there's so much freaking stuff!

Your bow is rated as "40 lb at 28 inches draw" (40 lb @ 28"). IF your draw-length is really 28 inches, you need arrows made for a "40 lb draw-weight" ("spined" at/near 40 lbs).

I say "if", because your actual draw-length may be different. It is measured by pulling the string back to a specific, consistent place (mine is immediately below and even with my ear; yours will likely be different); the distance from string to back of bow (the side facing the target) is your draw-length. Draw-weight changes approximately 2 to 2.5 pounds for every inch up or down from 28 inches (the rated draw-weight is measured at 28 inches - it is standard).

You don't need an expensive or fancy arrow rest; a simple one-piece "finger" rest works just fine. You don't actually need an arrow rest at all; I have never used one, and the lack of a rest has never been a problem. Sights? They don't have to be fancy, either -- just adjustable, if you choose to use 'em. You don't need a fancy quiver that fits on the bow, either. Just get one of those "tube" quivers that clip onto a belt or pocket, they cost about $5. A shooting glove or tab, or maybe a "trigger" release. These can all be found at either of these two places:
http://www.tradtecharchery.com/
http://www.threeriversarchery.com/

For arrows, just tell whoever it is you are buying your arrows from this information: What kind of bow it is; your bow's rated draw-weight; your actual draw-length; whether you want to use feather fletching or synthetic fletching (fletching helps "steer" the arrow - it's at the "back end"); whether you want the arrows painted or not and what colors; and what the arrows are for (target or hunting). The person making the arrow, if they know what they're doing, will know what kind of points to use and how long to make the arrows. I suggest contacting the folks at 3Rivers about arrows. See the previous paragraph.

Now, for those who have nobody around to teach them, go here:
http://sagittarius.student.utwente.nl/artikel/steps/
You don't have to do each step exactly as shown, but you do need to be consistent; the important thing is to do each step CONSISTENTLY the same way each time. And it really helps to use the back and shoulder muscles to pull the string back, not just the arm muscles; try to "pinch" the shoulder blades together. (Think like a U.S. Marine: Gut in! Chest out!).

But "targetbutt" is right. Being completely new to archery, you really should start with a low-poundage bow. You'll learn faster, and better, with a 20-25 lb draw bow.

Archers Prepare to Dominate Again in '05
Stephanie Miller steps up to the line, raises her bow, and waits. She periodically looks down at a stopwatch attached to her quiver and—at the last possible second—lets her arrow go.

Thanks for visiting!